Thursday, November 25, 2010

La Paz Welcomes the Ha-Ha

On November 18th, those who participated in the Baja Ha-Ha were invited to a local restaurant for a "Welcome to La Paz" party. Along with 150 of our closest Ha-Ha friends, we enjoyed a night full of fish tacos (Dad tried the octopus, too...he definitely regretted that decision later) margaritas, and mariachis. It was a lot of fun and a great way to reconnect with many of our new friends.
The venue before the party

A local children's dance group performed for us


Part of the anchorage during sunset

Me and Vivien

Dad and Gary

Dad, Me, and Gary

Dad, Me, and Mike

"I won! I won!" There was also raffle drawings throughout the night
and I won Dad a new hat. (Apparently amidst my excitement
Dad struggled to hold the camera still...)

Me and Bob

The Mariachi's played for our table


A beautiful sunset to add to the night

Baking on a Boat

While in San Diego, I had my first tour of a boat, other than Sea Chaser. During this tour, I was pleasantly surprised to find that regular cruising boats generally have full kitchens ("gallies" in boating terms) including small ovens. Keeping in mind that since we left Coos Bay, I've been wanting to bake cookies (but, unfortunately, Sea Chaser doesn't have the capabilities to do so). So, as a means to satisfy my sweet tooth, I've taken it upon myself to invade a variety of our dock neighbors and use their mini-ovens for baking a variety of decadent desserts.

My first boat baking experience happened on So Inclined, a 36 ft. Catalina. Mike (the Captain/owner) and his crew/friend Bob are bachelors and were needing a cookie fix just as bad as I was. I met Mike during the Ha-Ha and told him once the rally was over I was going to invade his boat to bake cookies (he didn't object). With open arms he welcomed me aboard and we attempted our first batch of chocolate chip cookies (that's right, I said our first batch...we ended up baking on two separate occasions. The first 4 dozen just wasn't enough.) I don't think I've laughed that hard in weeks!
Me and Mike combining the ingredients

Mike and Bob stirring the batter

The "Cookie Crew" awaiting the fresh chocolate chip cookies
 My second boat baking experience was, once again, on So Inclined. Our first batch of chocolate chip cookies was slightly disappointing because they ended up too cakey (although this minor "defect" didn't prevent us from finishing them off. But, we had to choke them down and were highly unsatisfied...haha). So, during baking day 2 we used butter instead of margarine, added oatmeal, raisins, and cinnamon and made a much more satisfying batch. Mike added to the baking (and proved his ability to multitask) by making us chocolate chip pancakes, eggs, and mimosas for brunch...another great day in La Paz.
Mike and I enjoying Mimosas

Mike, Me, and Bob waiting for the cookies to bake
My third and final (for now) baking on a boat experience was aboard Lady Ann a 37 ft. Irwin. Dad and I met owners Vivien and Joel back in Channel Islands Harbor and have continued to stay in contact ever since. This sailing husband and wife participated in the Ha-Ha and are now docked just 3 slips down from us in La Paz. We've really enjoyed their company during a significant part of this adventure (and now I've been able to enjoy their oven, too). During our separate journeys, both Vivien and myself celebrated our birthdays (mine 10/28 and Vivien's 11/15). Both of us were quite bitter about the fact that neither one received birthday cakes so we brought it upon ourselves to bake our own. So, we preheated the oven, mixed up the batter and made a delicious chocolate birthday cake with chocolate frosting. While we waited for the chocolate cake to bake we also decided to whip up a pumpkin pie as well...just because it's that time of year. Another successful baking day aboard a boat.
Vivien and I cut our bithday cake together

We also enjoyed some cake batter

I eat my first piece of b-day cake

Perfect and Peaceful La Paz

 After over 2.5 months of sailing down the Oregon, California, and Baja Coastlines we've finally made it to our final destination, La Paz. It's truly everything we could have asked for and more. We are in a beautiful marina just outside the city and the weather is perfect everyday. With 85 degree days and 65 degree nights it's more than comfortable (even though the locals are starting to bundle up for winter, Dad and I are loving these temperatures.)

Me in front of a fountain in the city

Overlooking the bay and anchorage

La Iglesia (the church)

Dad under the street sign "5 de Mayo"
(which means May 5th...his birthday!)


















Our new home-away-from-home (Marina Palmira)
Each day we continue to explore more (and learn more, too). I've taken it upon myself to use this time in Mexico as a refresher course for my high school Spanish skills. I take every chance I get to chat with the locals as I attempt to re-learn. So far so good. I've also been participating in weekly Yoga classes and spending time with a variety of people that I've met (both during the Ha-Ha and more recently on our dock).
Me, Dad, Joel, Vivien, and Mike (lobster dinner with friends)

Dad and I getting ready to eat our lobster

My lobster dinner
 Dad and I have managed to find numerous grocery stores, including an open air market with butchers (the pig heads and raw meat caught us both off guard the first time) and produce. Dad is still in search to find where the locals eat, although I'm enjoying the food at the fancy tourist restaurants quite a bit. I have also explored a couple of the local fabric stores and coffee shops, as well. After a few weeks here, I am finally beginning to feel familiar with the city and know where a variety of stores and markets are (without having to use a map). Dad is also getting his bearings (using Burger King as his central location...hey, whatever works.)

La Paz is surrounded by beautiful anchorages that are just a day sail away. Hopefully once we feel a little more settled, we will take a trip out to enjoy the snorkeling and warm waters of the Sea. For now, though, we are still enjoying the security of being tied up and the marina life. Dad has decided to stay here for 4-6 more months and is looking forward to learning more about the city, the local life, and the Sea of Cortez. I will be returning back to Portland in December and can't wait to see family and friends for the holidays.

La Paz continues to be exciting each day and is the perfect end of this adventure for me and perfect beginning of a new adventure for Dad.
Dad with his favorite statue

Dad and I in front of the Sea of Cortez


Puerto Los Cabos

Our marina's flag
The new marina, Puerto Los Cabos
After spending 4 days in Cabo San Lucas, we started our journey up the Sea of Cortez...our vacation was finally beginning. We decided to make our first stop San Jose del Cabo a mere 19 miles from Cabo San Lucas. Here, a brand new marina has been built complete with water, electricity, and a fuel dock. We were pleasantly surprised by the amount of Baja Ha-Ha boats at this marina and were able to reconnect with a few of our friends that we had lost touch with among the hustle and bustle of Cabo.

At our new marina, we washed Sea Chaser, took showers (our first real showers since San Diego!) and re-provisioned our food stash (aka PB&J). Although we would have liked to spend more time here, weather conditions pushed us forward to our final destination of La Paz.

Other boats at the marina

Sea Chaser tied up to the dock

More marina views
One of the greatest features of this up and coming marina were the paintings and sculptures from artist, Leonora Carrington, that lined the path to the main office. We thoroughly enjoyed our brief stay at this  marina and were happy to be able to spend a couple of nights tied up to it's steady docks.
One of the many sculptures

Me in front of our dock's gate




Me with one of Leonora Carrington's sculptures

Baja Ha-Ha 2010

The fleet leaving San Diego
On October 25, we readied the sails and prepared for the "Big Race." Alongside 196 other boats, from all over the U.S. and Canada, we looked for the perfect position to start (Dad and I chose the back). The weather was questionable with 15-20 knots of wind and approximately 4-6 ft. seas; but, although we were tossed around a bit, we both agree that exiting San Diego was some of our best sailing yet. For 4 hours we sailed at about 7 knots, but still couldn't managed to keep up with the fleet. And so our adventure continues...

Me steering the boat during the start of the race
(With my Halloween bow-tie...Dad's idea to wear them...awesome)
Dad's turn to drive...sweet tie, right?

The last we saw of the fleet for the first leg of the race.
As we continued through the first leg, we encountered rough seas (probably our roughest yet), light winds, a few minor motor issues, and our first taste of the Mexico sun. I also celebrated my 22nd birthday. Dad and I quickly understood why a 27 foot boat is the smallest vessel allowed in the Ha-Ha race...it's pretty hard to keep up with the 40 footers (oh who am I kidding...it's hard to keep up with the 30 footers, too). Despite our slower pace we managed to make it to all the anchorages (although we arrived at each a day behind the fleet) where we met a variety of incredible people and, hopefully, long lasting friends.
Sailing along the Baja, Leg 1
Dad waves, "Happy Birthday, Kelly!"
(Yes, he's still in foul weather gear...yes, we are in Mexico
...the sun wasn' that warm yet)
Me smiling, celebrating my 22nd birthday on the open
water.
The second leg of the trip started from Turtle Bay and took us to Bahia Santa Maria. On October 30th, we lifted the anchor and continued down the coast. Here we encountered lighter winds and calmer seas and continued to cruise at our average 4.7 knots (keeping the motor running almost the entire way). During this leg, however, we were able to cook dinner underway for the first time (hot dogs and chili...anything other than PB&J and granola bars was fine by me), as well as sail wing-and-wing (a downwind sailing technique). The sun was a little warmer and we finally started to feel like we were in Mexico (although we still wore the foul weather gear at night...we just can't seem to put it away). Dad also did some fishing this leg...no keepers, but plenty were caught.
The fleet leaving Turtle Bay, start of Leg 2

Sea Chaser under full sail leaving Turtle Bay

"Quick! take a picture...wing-and-wing!"

A Mexico sunset

Dad fighting the "big one"

Dad's catch
The second leg ended in Bahia Santa Maria. Here Dad and I anchored close to new friends, and crew of fellow Ha-Ha boat, Rainbow. Upon our arrival (a day behind the fleet, typical) they made us dinner consisting of freshly caught tuna, pasta, and homemade carrot cake accompanied by ice cream! What a treat! The following day we attended the fleet beach party where we chatted, drank, and ate all day...it was a relief to be on solid ground for a few hours. After the party, Dad and I decided (well Dad decided, I don't think I actually had much say in the matter...) that we should leave that night to get a head start on the third and final leg to Cabo. In the end it was a good decision. (I should have known, isn't it an unwritten rule that the Captain is always right?) We were able to pass the finish line into Cabo with the fleet, a priceless experience.
Bahia Santa Maria anchorage

Dad and I at the beach party

Santa Maria beach and anchorage

The last leg was a bit choppy and entering Cabo we had 35 knot winds on our nose...apparently this has never happen before in the 17 years that the Ha-Ha has been happening (of course it would happen the year we decide to participate, haha). Needless to say, anchoring once we arrived in Cabo with those winds, was a bit of a challenge. I probably yelled more at Dad during that hour than the entire trip combined, but we managed.
The sunrise over Cabo

Dad tying down sails during the rough Cabo water

An action shot of Sea Chaser entering Cabo
Despite a few minor mishaps and a slightly slower pace, we survived the race! We made it to Cabo San Lucas with the rest of fleet where we enjoyed a few days of much needed R&R (we even spent a night in a hotel as a treat). The race was a great experience for both of us where we gained more sailing knowledge, added another 700+ miles to our log book, and met some great people. I continue to tell Dad that although this trip has had it's moments of rough water, strong winds, and times when I wished I was on solid ground instead of bobbing around in the ocean, I wouldn't trade it for anything. The people that I've met (especially those in the Ha-Ha Rally...you know who you are) and the memories I've shared with Dad, make up for everything.
Ken, Gerard, Me, and Frank at Baja Brewing Co.

The Cabo anchorage